EOC4422 (4732F) Ocean Wave Mechanics

Catalog Course Description: Small-amplitude wave theory, finite-amplitude waves, wave generation, wave forecasting, wave measurements. Wave forces on fixed structures, floating bodies, and moored bodies.

Instructor: Dr. P. Ananthakrishnan, Department of Ocean Engineering.

Office: 207 SeaTech, Tel. 954-924-7227; Fax. 954-924-7007; email ananth@oe.fau.edu.

Class Room: 233, SeaTech

Class Hours: MW 08:30-9:50 AM

Office Hours: MW 10:30 - 12:30 PM @SeaTech; T Th 4:00-6:00 PM @Boca

Prerequisites: EOC3123 Fluid Mechanics I and EOC3114 Vibrations

References:
1. R. G. Dean and R. A. Dalrymple, Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, World Scientific, (Required Text Book).

2. Lecture Notes (attendance required).

Grading:
1. Homework, [10%]
2. Term Project and Laboratory Experiments, [15%]
3. Test 1, 13 September 1999, 8:30 -- 9:45 a.m., [15%]
4. Test 2, 11 October 1999, 8:30 -- 9:45 a.m., [15%]
5. Test 3, 15 November 1999, 8:30 -- 9:45 a.m., [15%] (OPEN book/notes/calculator)
6. Final Examination, 08 December 1999, 8:30--11:30 a.m. [30%]
[Grade (based on absolute score): 90% < A < 100%; 80% < B < 89%; 70% < C < 79%; 60% < D < 69%]

Course Outline:
1. Governing equations of viscous- and inviscid-fluid motions. Potential flow formulation. Laplace equation. Euler's integral. Boundary-value problem of ideal flow. Small-amplitude waves. Linearized free-surface conditions. Periodic, progressive- and standing-wave solutions to linearized free-surface flow problem.

2. Wave kinematics. Dispersion relation. Shallow- and deep-water limits. Phase and group velocity. Particle trajectory. Wave energy and propagation. Capillary waves. Waves on currents.

3. Transformation of waves entering shallow water. Wave refraction. Snell's law. Wave shoaling.

4. Long wave theory. Tides in channels. Reflection and transmission of long waves due to abrupt transition in depth or width. Seiching. Storm surge.

5. Wave radiation and diffraction. Wavemaker theory. Wave forces on fixed structures. Froude-Krylov approximation. MacCamy-Fuchs analysis for large structures. Morison's equation. Wave forces on structures in shallow waters. Response of freely-floating and moored bodies to surface waves.

6. Generation of wind waves. Wave statistics and spectra. Wave-height distributions. Directional spectrum.

7. Finite-amplitude waves. Perturbation method. Second-order solutions. Analysis of internal waves.

8. On some recent analyses, open problems and research topics in water-wave mechanics.

Note: Topics listed above are only tentative. While it is the intention of the instructor to cover all these important topics in the lectures, some topics may have to be dropped because of time constraints.

Lecture Notes Online (PostScript Files)
Chp. 1. Introduction. Review of equations governing fluid flows. Euler's equation. Potential flow formulation.

Chp. 2. Boundary-value problem; Rigid-boundary and free-surface boundary conditions; Linearization of the free-surface boundary conditions for small-amplitude waves.

Chp. 3. Periodic, standing-wave and progressive wave solutions to linearized free-surface flow problem.

Chp. 4. Kinematic properties of water waves: dispersion relation, wave speed, particle velocity, pressure field and particle trajectory.

Some Important Dates:
Classes begin: 23 August 1999
Last day to complete registration : 27 August 1999
Last day to drop without receiving a W: 17 September 1999
Last day to drop without receiving a F: 15 October 1999

Please check the University Catalog/Schedule/Announcements to confirm these dates.